![paintcode masking paintcode masking](https://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/r-c-items-sale-trade/708772d1297748902-traxxas-slash-4x4-stock-body-paint-mask-photo-1.jpg)
Note that the sharpness of the paint edge relates to the distance the mask is held above the model, which in some instances is useful and in others a nuisance. “Post-It Notes” are one of the most useful, but even a piece of card held in place by hand or Blu-Tack can be used. “Loose masks” are also valuable, and these are intended to be moved from place to place or where you are working on a localised area. Another option is “Silly Putty” that can be teased into shape and does not leave any residues behind (whereas materials such as Plasticene can leave oily marks).Īll of the above are “fixed masks”. Frisk Film is a transparent or tinted film with a low strength tack adhesive that is specifically made for making airbrush masks or stencils (I find the edge of the film – where it has been exposed to air – often lacks any stick so it is best to trim the edge away). For flattish areas you could use paper masks, and this includes copying out the camouflage pattern from the kit instructions (correcting for size) and cutting pieces out from this. You will then need to fill the spaces between the sausages that are not to be painted and there are some options here. If you want a sharp edge, then it is better to use tape or liquid mask. It can also be rolled into “sausages” and applied to the model at the edge of camouflaged areas: the diameter of the sausage controls the amount of feathering you get along the edge. It can be applied to small details and teased into position using a cocktail stick. Makes that do not leave a stain are best suited to our needs. So it can be useful to slap some of this stuff over your masking to make sure everything is sealed up before applying paint.īlu-Tack (or similar product) is also useful for masking purposes. Note that liquid masking fluids can be useful for sealing up any gaps you may have inadvertently left (or can arise later as sometimes the tape starts to lift off) with masking tape (or any other material we will be talking about later).
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I have also purchased some Microscale Micromask that is supposed to do much the same as E Z Mask, but have not yet given it a try. I have had big problems using this over large areas, but it is okay for masking small areas so long as they do not have delicate details as you may have to get brutal in removing the mask. I also have some Ambroid E Z Mask (which, unsurprisingly, is American), a blue coloured liquid mask that can be trimmed to shape with a scalpel blade when set. Humbrol’s Maskol is the most common variety, but note that it contains ammonia that will act to dissolve Johnson’s Klear, so avoid using this fluid over transparencies that have been treated in this way. Small details can also be masked off using masking fluid. You may need to finish off by using liquid masking fluid to get a neat edge. You may sometimes want to close the gap around the cavity, so a piece of card can be trimmed to fit the opening and pressed in, on top of the tissue, I have also used micromesh, rather than card, and it has worked well.
![paintcode masking paintcode masking](https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/aa7c124a-4184-4bab-a570-8e70f23b9995_1.fadeee37e923cc6e89c42654892e31bd.jpeg)
(When you come to remove the tissue, wet it first and then it will come out easily). I then apply some diluted white PVA glue to the surface to firm it up and stop it from falling out once the tissue dries. My preference, however, is moistened Kleenex tissue folded up to fit in place. Pieces of sponge foam, such as that used for packaging, can be pressed inside. Let’s start with the masking of cavities in the aircraft, such as cockpits and wheel wells, before applying the main colour to the model. I’ll write as if we are talking about masking an aircraft model, but obviously the techniques can be applied to any subject, including figurines. So anything that cuts down on this is bound to be useful. You might spend what seems an age getting everything ready and then find applying the paint takes just an instant and the next thing you know you are removing all that material that you had put so much time and effort into applying. Masking a model for painting can be a real drudge. Masking Techniques & Short Cuts by Pat Camp